An explosion of creativity took over Santa Fe for Native Fashion Week, with double the shows and some serious star power.

In only its second year, the spin-off of SWAIAs fashion show during Indian Market that started in 2014 has become a major draw with top designers, models, movie stars, and mainstream press attending. This year there were two shows, one put on by SWAIA in association with Vancouver Indigenous Fashion Week, the other produced by Amber Dawn Bear Robe, who started the SWAIA shows and has now gone out on her own.

Starting on Thursday with a glam SWAIA party at the Governor’s Mansion, guests included Sky Eagle Collection’s Dante Biss-Grayson and family (he is the adopted son of artist Earl Biss); Dark Winds director Chris Eyre, Eugene Brave Rock, and Zahn McClarnon who is filming season 4; jewelers Kenneth Johnson and Cody Sanderson, who are exhibiting at the Convention Center’s vendor show; designer Rebekah Jarvey and her model son Royce, who both appeared in shows; and beaded hat designer Lynn Traylor of Auntie Creations.

Over at the Railyard, a painted Skyway train owned by George R.R. Martin, producer of “Dark Winds,” took a scenic sunset ride through the countryside as models cruised the aisles.

Panels on Friday at La Fonda from SWAIA featured designers, buyers, stylists, editors and industry leaders. One panel was interrupted by the repeated tolling of bells from the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi across the street when the new pope was announced.

At the Railyard, talks featured Christian Allaire of Vogue Magazine and star designer Jamie Okuma, among others.

The runway shows started Friday at the Convention Center with knockout shows from Yukon’s Randi Nelson, who used hand-tanned hides in the dresses; and the finale show from perennial favorite Lauren Good Day, who sent model/Navajo weaver Naiomi Glasses and actor Gene BraveRock down the runway in her brightly patterned parfleche and ledger drawing inspired wear. Good Day also had a vendor booth in conjunction with Cece Meadows Prados Beauty cosmetic line.

On Saturday, the House of Sutai designed by Peshawn Bread opened with a crystal-clad true drama queen named Lara Laquiz who is a model/muse for big name European brands. She was followed by sultry “Frybread Face and Me” film star/model Kahara Hodges in a slinky black dress draped with freshwater pearls and a crystal top, pearl and crystal heart purse, a gold-plated “House of Sutai” letter belt with baroque pearls and vintage beads. Wes Studi’s granddaughter Arysa walked the show, too, with Oscar-winner Wes in the front row beaming with pride. The next day, Bread’s mother, Emmy-winning film producer Jhane Myers (“Prey” and “Free Leonard Peltier”), sat in the front row wearing a House of Sutai black dress fresh off the runway.

Jason Baerg of Ayimach Horizons produced a next-level show at Warehouse 21 with architectural dresses and models bearing white roses wearing colored horsehair earrings with silver beads and crystals. “Dark Winds” star Jessica Matten walked for Korina Emmerich in voluminous fringed gowns. Front row guests included Zahn McClarnon and a surprise appearance from zombie killer deluxe Norman Reedus of “The Walking Dead: Daryl Dixon.”

Wabanoonkwe Irick x Jennifer Younger sent out a gorgeous collaboration called “Water Stories” as silken dresses in shades of cerulean and ocean blue were crowned with Younger’s bright copper jewelry worn by statuesque models, including gorgeous gray-haired Sandi Seigel. A group of jingle dancers made their way down the runway at the end to a joyous noise. In the front row was SWAIA President Dawn Houle wearing a glittery sequin dress by Wabanoonkwe.

Things got wild at Warehouse 21 shows as skateboarders careened down the runway, and Amber Dawn Bear Robe greeted the crowd wearing an earthen-colored dress made of corn husks and devils claw that looked extremely haute couture.

In the vendor room at the Railyard, booths lined the walls; while they filled two ballrooms at the convention center along with art, painted mannequins and a pottery painted car by Jesse Littlebird called Petrol Glyphs courtesy of Sovereign Santa Fe gallery.

Patricia Michaels of PM Waterlily designs had an unbeatable week. Her first day of the shows she got the news that she had been accepted to a four-year teaching job at the renowned Parsons School of Design in NYC, founded 129 years ago.

Asked if she was okay with leaving her home in the Taos Pueblo where she creates world class designs off a generator with no internet access she said, “When opportunity knocks, embrace it and harness the experience.”

Her show of hand-painted silks paid homage to sustainability and Indigenous, pre-contact iconography. A series of desert landscape gowns on enormous hoop skirts were astonishing. 

Then for the finale of her show and Native Fashion Week, former Secretary of the Interior Deb Haaland, Navajo, stepped out in a rust-colored dress with flowing silk train to a standing ovation. 

Michaels said, “My finale speaks for herself. She graces and closes out this momentous SWAIA Fashion Week and we are so incredibly honored and humbled to have her presence. As a Southwest woman, she walks gracefully in beauty and ancestral strength and wisdom.”

Sandra Hale Schulman, of Cherokee Nation descent, has been writing about Native issues since 1994 and writes a biweekly Indigenous A&E column for ICT. The recipient of a Woody Guthrie Fellowship, she...