Sarah Agaton Howes has come a long way since her early days of selling her handmade earrings in parking lots.“It’s hard to make a living that way,” she says with a laugh. “I was lucky if I hustled enough to help pay for propane.”
Howes, Anishinabe from the Fond du Lac Reservation in Minnesota, is now an artist/entrepreneur with the Inspired Natives Project by Eighth Generation. Inspired Natives, launched by Louie Gong, is a business and educational initiative helping Native artists market their work while spreading the message of indigenous self-determination and sustainability.
In addition to creating beadwork and bags, designing blankets and cell phone cases, and making moccasins, Howes is also sharing her jingle dress-making skills with others. Teaching is about far more than cutting and sewing fabric for Howes. Her classes and online tutorials help foster healing and empowerment for Native women, says Howes, who has a strong interest in community advocacy and revitalization of Native culture. “Learning how to sew and create my own regalia and share that skill with others,” she says, “has been tremendously validating as an Anishinabe woman.”
The work has helped her realize her dream of reinvigorating pride in the Native community. “I often saw myself as a peripheral person in terms of my Anishinabe culture. I never felt like I belonged,” she explains.
After attending her first powwow at age 13, she longed to dance but was unsure if she deserved to be a part of the dance circle. Finally at age 23, with the help of her mother and family, she made her first set of dance regalia.
As she attended more powwows she was drawn to the jingle dress dancers, their sense of camaraderie and friendship. “I saw them dancing and laughing together.There is something truly loving about the relationship of jingle dress dancers and I wanted to be a part of that,” she recalls.
The jingle dress is seen as a healing dress. There are various stories about the origins of the dress. “I was told that long ago, during a time of sickness, a man dreamed of a jingle dress that would heal the people,” says Howes. “He and his wife made the first dress. Even today, making and wearing the dress helps us heal ourselves.”
Making a jingle dress requires hard work and commitment even for the simplest pattern. The dress holds 365 jingles, one for each day of the year. Each jingle, usually made out of snuff can lids turned into the shape of a cone, symbolizes a prayer. In the past, people had to turn their own cones by hand but now ready-made jingles are available. Each jingle must be individually secured to the dress but only after all the ribbons and applique are in place. The jingles make a pleasant, “shush shush” sound as the dancer moves.
Making a jingle dress can be transformative for Native women. “I see their faces light up when they wear the finished dress,” Howe says. “The process of making a jingle dress can help women work through the shame of not knowing about their culture and pursue a connection with their inheritance as Anishinabe.”
Wearing the jingle dress also carries a responsibility. “We conduct ourselves with dignity and pride as Anishinabe women when we wear our jingle dress,” she explains. “I was told that when I dance jingle, I should keep my steps low and always keep one foot on the ground. I try to dance with intention.”
Her dress-making classes fill up instantly these days.“We are living in a time of healing and reclamation. I am so proud that I can help make these skills available for my people.”
See Sarah Agaton Howes’ artwork and jingle dress tutorials at houseofhowes.com.
