Sandra Hale Schulman
ICT
SANTA FE, New Mexico — Indigenous designers were at the top of their game with enormous feathers, intricate beading and painted leather at the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts Native Fashion Week Gala.
The annual event offered a more refined experience this year in a new location, focused on traditional craft as imagined by contemporary designers. The week also included a Native Creatives Market for two bustling days on May 8-9 at the Eldorado Hotel in downtown Santa Fe.
“We are immensely proud of this year’s Native Fashion Week, and of our ability to present a bold new format to a sold-out audience,” said SWAIA Executive Director Jamie Schulze, Northern Cheyenne/Sisseton Wahpeton Oyate.
“Events like this affirm why SWAIA Native Fashion Week matters, for our designers, for Indigenous communities, and for the future of fashion.”
Moving from the cavernous Convention Center to the elegant Eldorado Hotel, the market started Friday, May 8, with 20 booths from vendors, including Lauren Good Day’s ready to wear, accessories from Sage Mountainflower, jewelers Kenneth Johnson and Cody Sanderson, teeth necklaces from Cole Forrest Jewelry, and upcycled punk designs from Son of Picasso.
A designer kickoff party for the media on Friday night at the Cava Lounge in the Eldorado was attended by dressed-up guests including designer Rebekah Jarvey and her model son Royce, who are both featured in an Emmy-nominated film; actor Gene Brave Rock; “Dark Winds” director Chris Eyre; writer/model Kate Nelson; and Jimmy Dean Horn of Running Horse Studio, who threw an artsy dance after-party at his design studio.
Also attending were media executive Crystal Echo Hawk of Indigenous House; Oscar-winning actor Wes Studi, who wore a “Reservation Dogs” T-shirt under his Navajo wool jacket; and Naiomi and Tyler Glasses, Navajo, who are Ralph Lauren designers, greeting media from Vogue Magazine, Cowboys & Indians, Hamiinat Magazine, and of course ICT.
The party was so hot the hotel’s fire alarm went off about 15 minutes before it was scheduled to end, sending the dressed-up crowd scurrying for the exit. There was no actual fire, but by the time that was determined the bar —- and the doors —- had closed.
The sold-out gala on Saturday found the spacious ballroom decked out with white table cloths and bouquets of white roses. The three-course dinner was by “Chopped” Chef Ray Naranjo from Santa Clara Pueblo who was featured on the ‘Indigenous Inspirations’ episode that ran April 21 on the Food Network.
The first course was a delicious and unexpected salad of roasted plums with goat cheese and piñon nuts. Next was a plate of hearty bison short ribs and maple glazed rings of acorn squash. The dessert was a sweet cream brulee.
The chef sat with his family and was greeted by applause from the guests.
In a change from a traditional runway, the fashion show produced by designer Peshawn Bread, Comanche, took place on five different, lighted platforms as models took strolls around the ballroom onto each, then all gathered at the center for the final turn.
Each Native designer showed five original looks.
Credit: Photo by Emily Selier, courtesy of SWAIA
Patricia Michaels, Taos Pueblo, burst out with a botanical theme with florals on airy garments that seemed to float in the breeze.
Himikalas Pamela Baker, Squamish/Kwakiutl/Tlingit/Haida, showed her Northwest designs on black silk gowns and cape tops, and war paint on the models’ faces.
Jamie Okuma, Luiseño/Wailaki/Okinawan/Shoshone-Bannock, brought out a cross-section of her collections with a plaid dress, a metallic-and-satin gown, and a showstopper made of painted parfleche, a stiff leather, with rawhide stitching.
Jontay Kahm, Plains Cree, did things up with feathers in a collection he calls River Lily. His column organza dresses had long, colored plumes bursting out of the waist and neckline. One top was of black roses that snaked around the models chest, neck and back.
Lauren Good Day, Mandan/Hidatsa/Arikara, closed out the designer showings with a rainbow of ribbon skirts with matching tops, beaded cradle boards and moccasins. The models rocked the boards and had them strapped to their backs —babies not included. At the final turn, they powwow dance dipped in unison, a powerful ode to solidarity and motherhood.
ICT spotted Good Day in the Santa Fe airport on Monday morning with one of the cradle boards as her carry-on. People stopped to admire it as she sat in the lounge, beaming at the compliments as she read Vogue Magazine’s online story on the show that ran that day by Indigenous writer Christian Allaire. The article featured a beautiful group shot of Good Day with the collection.
“The mission of this weekend? To spotlight artists who are infusing traditional craftwork — from leatherwork to beadwork and beyond — with fresh, contemporary twists,” wrote Allaire, who was fresh from covering the Met gala in New York.
The show featured star models, including actress Kahara Hodges, who walked for Okuma, and CeCe Meadows of Prados Beauty, walked for Good Day.
Native musical performances were interwoven throughout the evening event, with an unexpected opera turn from tenor Bo Shimmin, Pueblo of Acoma, who charmed the room and sang Italian.
Aspyn Kaskalla, Navajo, played solo violin, while Tiana Spotted Thunder sang and DJ Breakawaay, Picuris Pueblo, kept the crowd going.
SWAIA will present its annual Fashion Show during Indian Market August 16.